Boot and Crampon Compatibility

The introduction of lighter mountain boots and new types of crampons and bindings has brought to a head the difficulty many people have when choosing the correct combination of boots and crampons. It is vital for safety in the mountains that the correct footwear is chosen, particularly when used in snow and ice conditions.

We use the following grading system to determining the correct boot/crampon combination. This grading system was devised a few years ago by mountaineer and mountain guide, Brian Hall and currently remains the definitive guide to matching boots with crampons. It should be stressed that this is only a guide and should be used as a supplement (not a substitute) for good advice from experienced shop staff, experienced mountaineers or mountain guides.

Boots

B0

Most two and three season walking boots are not suitable for crampon use (despite what some people claim). They are designed to flex for comfort and do not have sufficient lateral and longitudinal rigidity in their midsole. As a result crampons cannot be fitted securely and may fall off in potentially dangerous situations. Additionally the upper is often made of thinner leather or a combination of suede/fabric that compresses easily under crampon straps causing discomfort and cold feet.

B1

These are four season hill walking boots and usually have a reasonably stiff flexing sole and the uppers provide enough ankle and foot support for traversing relatively steep slopes. When fitted with certain types of flexible C1 crampons they are suitable for the easiest snow and ice conditions found when hill walking. They are also suitable for emergency and occasional use when crossing a short patch of snow or ice, rather than setting out initially fitted for a full days walk.
Recommendation: The all time classic B1 boot in this category is the Scarpa SL

B2

These are generally mountaineering and four season mountain walking boots which have a stiff flex with the equivalent of a three quarter or full shank midsole and a supportive upper made from high quality leather (probably over 3mm thick). These boots can be typically used all day with C1 or C2 crampons, for example on the easiest Scottish snow and ice climbs and straightforward alpine glacial terrain.
Recommendation: The Scarpa Manta is a good example of a B2 boot.

B3

These are technical mountaineering and climbing boots that are designed to have a rigid midsole and upper to provide support when climbing. Their stiff sole provides a platform to fit any type of crampon including totally rigid C3 ice climbing crampons.
Reccommendation: Scarpa Cumbre, Freney or Vega (plastic).

Crampons

Crampons are made for different purposes (walking, mountaineering and ice climbing) and need to be compatible with the boots they are fitted to, so they work in harmony. Even relatively stiff boots can flex and the crampon has to be able to flex and twist to stay safely on the boot. Crampons have two components which define their use and hence their grade. The metal spiked base and the strapping or binding system.
We grade compatible crampons as follows:

C1

These crampons are used for walking. They are generally made as a hinged or flexible 8 to 10 point crampon with or without front points and are commonly attached with straps or a plastic style binding system. The Grivel G9 typifies this grade of crampon. However the latest Grivel G10 with "New Classic" binding system (which is often referred to as a C2 grade crampon) fits many B1 boots and can be regarded as a bridge between the two grades.

C2

This is a multi-purpose mountaineering crampon with 10 or 12 points including front points. Attached with straps all round or straps at the front and clip-on heel.
The Grivel G10 is ideal for all day mountain walking, whereas the longer pointed G12 is a good choice for experienced mountaineers and ice climbers. The Grivel New Classic or Newmatic binding system are a perfect match for these two models.

C3

These are full on climbing crampons attached by full clip-on system of toe bar and heel clip. The G12 or G14 with a Crampomatic binding is a good combination for winter, alpine and mixed climbing. The more specialist Rambo crampons are designed for high-grade, technical ice climbing.

Boots in the B3 category are ideal for C3 crampons and will also take C2 and C1. At the other end of the spectrum a Bl boot could only be recommended with a C1 crampon.

Fitting the right crampons to your boots is an important safety issue and we strongly recommend that you get advice from your specialist mountaineering retailer or other suitably qualified body.