EDELRID Ropes

Whether mountaineering, canyoning or caving, the rope is the single most important element in the safety chain and has to fulfill a wide range of demands.
EDELRID has had over 100 years to perfectly fine-tune the interplay between a ropes individual characteristics. The high standard of EDELRID products is guaranteed by continuous development, field tests and with the help of the latest laboratory technology.


Rope constructions

The basis of EDELRID ropes is the kernmantel construction developed by Edelmann + Ridder in 1951.
Here the main load is taken by the core, whereas the sheath protects the core against abrasion and other external influences.
Construction and adjustment of core and sheath guarantee torsion neutrality after the manufacturing process and make sure that the two elements work as a unit during use.

EDELRID Climbing Ropes

The dynamic properties of climbing ropes are created by a special thermic treatment. In case of a fall the impact force on the body and thus the risk of injuries are minimized.

EDELRID-Semi-Static Ropes

have a high static strength with extremely low elongation values and low weight per metre. They are suitable for applications with mainly static loading such as in speleology or abseiling.

Quality Management

Systematic development and continuous production control are the basis for high quality.
A sample is taken from every lot to control the different technical characteristics. Apart from product control, machines and manufacturing processes are also subject to continuous surveillance. These measures are a guarantee for steady product quality exceeding the required standards. The latest laboratory equipment such as standard dynamic performance test apparatus and pull-test machine, partly developed by EDELRID, serve the further development of the quality process.

Quality standard, CE- and UIAA Requirements

All EDELRID ropes are CE-certified and meet the standards EN 892 or EN 1891. Climbing ropes come up to the even higher demands of the UIAA standards (see sheath slippage).
The CE-certification is based on an external control through an official, independent test institute. Production controls together with the control of incoming and outgoing products guarantee a complete quality check. Edelrid is an ISO 9001: 2000 certified company.

Marking Marking Semi-static EDELRID ropes have a printed marking tape
manufactured into the core for an exact identification of the product.
It indicates manufacturer, country of origin, standard, raw material, rope type etc. in periodic intervals. Coloured tracer threads (also in climbing ropes) enable the user to determine the year of production at any time.

Rope Length

Mechanical influences can cause shrinkage. Climatic influences, especially high temperatures, (for example a car boot in summer) can cause irreversible shortening of the rope.
The cutting of EDELRID ropes is done with standardized and sealed measuring instruments. An extra amount - depending on the complete length - is added to balance the inevitable shrinkage effect.

Rope Testing



Parametres

The characteristics of a rope such as handling, kinking, wear and tear etc. depend on many parametres.
It is important to understand how the technical specifications affect the properties of the rope. This is the key to the right choice of the rope.
The wrong choice of rope, apart from preventing your full enjoy ment of the sport, could prove fatal.

Sheath Slippage

This value shows the sheath slippage against the core.The maximum permissible value is ± 20 mm. High sheath slippage has a negative impact on the abrasion resistance, as well as on handling and functioning when used with descenders and rescue devices.

Impact Force

The impact force is the force transferred to the human body in the event of a fall. In practice this impact is determined by different factors: rope, dynamic belaying, body position and weight. During a lab test the impact force is the force identified on the first standard fall with a fall factor of 1.7.

Elongation during Use

The elongation is identified with an impact of 80 kg. In order to limit the danger of injuries due to bouncing during a fall, elongation is limited to
• 10% for single and twin ropes
• 12% for half ropes.

Knotability

Relative value for the flexibility of a rope. It indicates the relation of the width of the knot (inner dia metre of the knot) to the rope diametre after a loading of 10 kg. Low values are the characteristics of ropes with high flexibility.

Number of Falls

Number standard falls held during a dynamic fall test with a falling weight of 80 kg (half rope: 55 kg).
The number of falls and impact force values are lab parametres and cannot be compared to a real fall. In practice the forces on a rope are considerably lower, unless there is an additional strain caused by a sharp edge etc. The higher the number of falls, the higher the safety reserves.  

Sheath Proportion

The sheath proportion indicates the relation between sheath and core of the rope. Rope constructions with a very high sheath proportion are particularly abrasion-resistant and suitable for intense toproping or indoor climbing.

Interplay of Parametres

Technical rope values have to be interpreted correctly. It is essential for the user not to look at them separately, but to relate them to one another.
A low impact force, for example,always results in an increased elongation value, increasing the 'bungee' effect. Less flexible ropes are more likely to kink. Indoor ropes with a high sheath mass and high weight per metre are not suitable for alpine use. A strong sheath slippage reduces safety and handling characteristics, which also applies to very hard or very soft ropes.
Although the choice of a rope is a subjective decision, the particular application should always be the most important criterion.

 

Rope Types and their Range of Use



Single Ropes

Used as a single rope it holds falls as a part of the safety chain. It is universally applicable in mountaineering.
Diametres vary from 9.4 to 11 mm. The smaller the rope diametre, the lower the rope’s weight and braking effect during abseiling and belaying. Of course, safety reserves are affected as well. The advantage of the single rope technique is its user friendly handling. As a result, most belaying devices are designed for single ropes.

Half Ropes

Half ropes are used in pairs for lead climbing. Half ropes allow teams of three to move fast. The double rope technique offers a maximum of safety on new routes with mobile protection. Diametres range from 8.0 to 9.0 mm.

Twin Ropes

Twin ropes are exclusively used in pairs. Be cause of their larger surface and a total cross-section which is 20-30% larger compared to single ropes, they have a considerably higher edge resistance.
The risk of a complete destruction is reduced. Joining both ropes gives the whole rope length for abseiling. The use of one rope alone is to be avoided, even for seconding.

EDELRID Semi-Static Ropes

Semi-static ropes, developed and tested according to EN 1891, are also called low elongation kernmantel ropes.
Due to their special characteristics they have found their way to application areas which used to be reserved for steel ropes and braided textile ropes. Kernmantel ropes with low elongation values are preferred where pure static loading takes place. EDELRID semi-static ropes have proved to have extraordinary characteristics in many different ranges and applications such as speleology, industrial safety, fire rescue, space research, forestry and outdoor centres.

Construction

• EDELRID semi-static ropes are made in a bi-partite kernmantel construction. 
• The core is made of bundled yarns or special braidings, the essential elements of torsion neutrality. 
• Depending on the rope diametre, the number and strength of the pre-braided yarns in the sheath are adjusted to the core. 
• Core and sheath form one unit. 
• High resistance, low elongation values and minimum sheath slippage thanks to optimal production technology. 
• Very strong, UV-stabilized, abrasion- and water resistant polyamide is used (except for the PESStatic).

Hints and Tipps



Rope Types

According to EN 1891 semi-static ropes are classified in type A and B. Type A ropes come up to higher demands than type B. EDELRID semi-static ropes have a type marking at the ends.

Maximum Breaking Strength and Elongation

These parametres are extremely important for hauling and ab seiling. The breaking strength should be as high as possible, elongation, however, very low.

Sheath Proportion

Together with the sheath structure, the sheath/core ratio affects the lifespan of the rope. The larger the proportion of the sheath, the higher its abrasion resistance.

Shrinkage

Due to the use of polyamide in the ropes and the impacts during use, a certain shrinkage is to be expected. White semi-static ropes are generally subject to higher shrinkage.

Knotability

It defines the flexibility of a rope. The smaller the knot, the higher the rope’s flexibility. For frequent tying and untying of a knot and abseiling with rope brakes the flexibility should be as high as possible. For climbing with ascenders and roping down with descenders a stiffer rope is ad visable.

EDELRID Service

The EDELRID quality management guarantees a constantly high standard of the products. Please note that textile products such as ropes and harnesses are subject to natural wear and tear.

Checking and Replacing

A rope has to be checked for possible damage before and after each use.
The easiest way to do this is to check it visually and let it run through the hands while pressing it softly to feel for damage and deformations. A rope should be replaced if the sheath is severely damaged and/or the core is visible. A rope with a fall factor of over 1 also has to be replaced immediately. Your own safety depends on replacing the rope when needed!  

Rope Care is Safety

Because ropes do not only age by static and dynamic strains which cause material wear, but also by inevitable soiling, the user should understand the fundamentals of rope care. With adequate storage and care aging can be slowed down.

Storage

Rope care starts with proper storage.
The following conditions are recommended:

• storage temperature of approx. 20°C 
• a maximum air humidity of 65% 
• no aggressive chemical substances near the rope 
• no direct sun light

Store the rope loosely, optimally in EDELRID protection bags to re duce soiling and direct sunlight. Let them dry before storing.

Care

Even with careful use small stones, sand and soil are virtually forced into the rope. Tests have shown that this kind of soiling causes faster aging and a considerable reduction of safety reserves.
Through twisting, pulling and squeezing the dirt particles enter the core and lodge between the micro fibres where they have a grinding effect. This “inner ab rasion“ is not visible on the out side of the rope, but shows up in a reduction of the energy-absorption capacity and consequently in a lower number of falls.

Rinse the rope with clear water to remove light soiling. If the rope is heavily soiled, a cleaning with neutral soap (EDELRID Whip Wash) is recommended. Check the water quality, as extremely hard water can cause crystallization of salts inside the rope after drying. If possible, use filtered water. Dry the ropes in the shade, do not put in a tumble-dryer, in the sun or near heaters.

Kink-free Coiling

It is necessary to coil a rope properly for transport. A ring shaped coiling of the rope causes kinking and twisting along the longitudinal axis which should be avoided.

Use of Accessory Cords

A double fisherman’s knot to avoid accidental undoing is advisable. Short slings of a 5 mm EDELRID accessory cord are suitable for threading small belays or as substitute hook eyelets for carabiners.
Accessory cords used as short prusik slings for abseiling should have half the diametre of the main rope in order to have an ideal clamp effect.

Clipping the rope can often be difficult and tiring. Edelrid express sets are perfectly matched. The lower end of the sling is sewn tighter to hold the carabiner in place. The wider, upper loop is larger optimising the hingeing effect. The express slings and carabiners comply with the currently valid UIAA standards.